Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 2012

Liam Anderson — Had it at a restaurant, still thinking about it

9/10

Saw this on the wine list at a fancy dinner in London and our table split a bottle four ways. Even at restaurant markup it was eye-watering but honestly I'm glad we did it. Really clean and precise, with this quiet intensity that sneaks up on you. Not showy at all, just absolutely confident.

Felix Moreau — Excellent but let's be real about the price

7/10

Tasted this at a Bollinger event. It's clearly exceptional champagne — poised, persistent finish, loads of complexity. But I've had 2008 and 2006 Krug that moved me more for less money. If someone else is buying, absolutely. Out of my own pocket? I'd rather have three cases of decent grower champagne.

Aria Kim — Lived up to the reputation

9/10

Been curious about VVF for years after reading about how they make it from ungrafted vines. Went in on a bottle with three mates for New Year's. The structure is unreal — proper backbone but nothing harsh about it. Fruit gives it weight without being sweet. We all agreed it was the best thing we'd drunk all year.